Friday, April 27, 2012

Should I wear...?

An introduction to evidence based research for historic costuming

 Newcomers to costumed historical interpretation or reenacting often spend much time asking “do I need to wear …?” The natural instinct is to just ask those closest, or those you have bumped into on the internet. Sometimes that’s great, sometimes not so much. Either way, at some point you need to start doing your own research and setting your own standards based on that. Unfortunately the type of research  you need to do is far from what we were taught in high school or college. That knowledge might help you find a picture but you need to know how to “read” the picture. You need to glean the details from it not just paste it into a report. The good news is that in the past fifteen years an astonishing amount of primary sources for the 19th century have found their way onto the internet. 

How do you use those primary sources to decide if you need to wear x, y, or z? Let’s start with gloves. Partly because I’m in the midst of some research on them and they are on my mind, partly because I hear that question a lot. And, I too often hear a myth that women always wore gloves when they went outside. 

So…do I need to wear gloves when I go outdoors?
It fairly safe to start of with some assumptions to start (be prepared to be wrong once and a while though). We’ll start with the assumption that some women wore gloves some of the time. It can help you frame the real questions – who, when, where, and what did they look like.
Let’s look at a few pictures, if you want to know what people really did pictures are wonderful. Magazines will tell you what they aspired to do, just like Cosmo and Martha Stewart tell us what we are supposed to aspire to. I’m pretty sure they attained those aspirations at the same low rate we do. 

This is a picture from City Point, Virginia. Of Gen. Rufus Ingalls and some others. The women don’t look like they have gloves on. But, period gloves can be difficult to spot at a distance so the next picture is a closeup of one of the lady’s hands. Nope, no gloves. None of the women in the picture have any on, nor are they holding them or have them sitting in their laps, etc.http://www.loc.gov/pictures/resource/cwpb.03949/


Gloves can be hard to spot so blow up the picture…detail of some hands.


And another of some officers and ladies at Fort Monroe


And another closeup. 


It’s actually difficult to find photographs, set outside, with women wearing gloves which are clear enough to see any detail. Lucky for us many women donned their outerwear for studio shots, like the lovely Miss Chapman.


Again, zoom in to see what is really going on. Are they bulky or sleek? Loose or tight? If we can see the outline of her nail and the creases over her knuckles they must be both tight and thin. One picture is not enough to base things off though so keep looking, also pay attention to the length. How far over the wrist are they? Are there any decorations? If they have gloves but aren’t wearing them what are they doing with them?


There is much that photographs can’t tell us about the gloves. Color for one. Museum collections come in handy to answer that, and more.


Zoom in to get a good look, what do you notice? The seams are on the outside, not inside like most modern gloves. The leather is very fine and light/thin. There is no lining. There is a slit on the inside of the wrist, you need that to be able to get such tight gloves on. The little buckle and ribbon (or elastic) would close it up to keep it snug at the wrist.

Were they all black or white?  Don’t let gray scale photographs fool you, they loved color. A lovely lavender pair from the MET, http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80032192?rpp=20&pg=3&ao=on&ft=gloves&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=46#fullscreen

Look closely and you’ll see they are quite similar. The cuff has some pretty decoration and the buckle has been replaced by buttons but aside from that there isn’t much different.

Genre paintings and fashion illustrations will also help us confirm that women did indeed wear gloves outdoors.
 
Henry Alexander Bowler’s “The Doubt: ‘Can these Dry BonesLive”, 1855


The "Cordovan" from Godey's August 1861


Lady’s magazines can help fill in the holes regarding styles, colors, types available, seasonality, etc. What did Godey’s have to say about gloves in 1861?

In April:
“Straw-colored gloves, with two buttons, and worked with lavender color”
“Gloves worked with wine-color to match the dress.”
“Gloves worked with green.”                             
Looking at the fashion plate and wondering where the gloves are? Zoom in and you can just barely see three lines on the backs of their hands, the hands also look a bit flat in color compared to their faces. The lighter colors – straw, lemon, buff – can be hard to spot in both fashion plates and photographs. Look for traces of their detail and odd lines at the wrist.


Newspapers can help you determine what was available and when. The two following ads ran in the Brooklyn Daily Eagle throughout 1861. The kid gloves were advertised all year, the silk taffeta on the other hand only shows up June through September. 





Don’t rule out fiction of the day as a source. It can be especially helpful for shedding light on the who and when. Watch for clues about context – are they in the city or the country, is the character wealthy or poor, are they lauding the person or poking fun at her, and such. Returning to Godey’s from 1861:
From “Sunshine and shade; or, the governess”: “…on the morning before Christmas we find her and her two pupils dressed for a short journey; they are going to Augusta to spend the holidays, and as they stand before the sitting-room grate, drawing on their gloves, Martha and Mary bewail the inopportune illness of the overseer…
What clues are here? Late December can be cold, even in the South where this takes place. Even in just cool weather sitting in an unheated carriage for hours might prompt the hardiest of women to want gloves. The young ladies are of a class to have a governess so they are likely better off. A few sentences  later it's confirmed that they are on a plantation.

From “A new version of Paul and Virginia”: “…They admired the folding of her veil over the bonnet, the neatness of her gloves, even the manner in which her shawl was pinned; one judges character by trifles. She had with her a crimson-lined traveling bag, not crowded but full of dainty luxuries…” when Virginia reached her destination: “Miss Rachel, divested of garden gloves and dress, in a clean chintz wrapper, superintended Virginia’s unpacking
Again, gloves for travel and someone rather better off. But, also there were specific gloves for gardening.

From “Mr and Mrs Rasher”: “…Well! You’re able to stand a little imposition, and you don’t suppose I’m going to let ’em see I ever stepped into a kitchen. My hands show it! No, they don’t; and I’m going to keep ‘em done up nights in old gloves, and oil ‘em every night with – lard oil? – stuff! with rose cream
When you wear out you gloves they still have a purpose! Take a closer look at the story though. The Rashers seem to have started in lower place and made enough money to move up in society but they are still in transition. That likely explains the switch from lard oil to rose cream.

Of course you want to look at more sources than what I have here but, hopefully, this gives an idea of what to look for and how to look at it. So, back to the original question…Should I wear gloves?
Did women wear gloves? Yes
Did women always wear gloves outdoors? No
How to choose then?
Given  your time, place, activities, and socioeconomic status what types of gloves would you have owned and would they have been worn daily, saved for good, or just for specific work?
Do you have, or can you get, gloves which look like, and fit like, their gloves?
Exactly where you draw the line depends upon your own standards as well as the wishes of the group you're associated with or museum you’re working for. Never be afraid to bring new information to the table if you think a group might have missed something, that's the only way we'll move forward instead of backward. My own standard? If it’s an accessory it's not necessary, you can go out without gloves – they did. If the only gloves you have are bulky, loose fitting modern ones and it’s 80 degrees out leave the gloves home, they will detract from the better items you’re wearing and you’ll be more comfortable without them. If the mercury dips to single digits that’s another matter. Frostbite might be historically accurate but it’s really not an appropriate sacrifice! Unless you can find someone making good reproduction gloves (and if you do please tell me who!) you need to find where you are happy along that spectrum.

Hopefully this has helped someone to get started on doing her or his own research!


Thursday, February 23, 2012

19th Century Knitting Sources online


Updated 3-28-2015
I'm gradually adding in some crochet books

1835
Lady. The Wreath, Or Ornamental Artist; Containing Instructions for Making Flowers of Wax Rice-Paper, Lamb’s-Wool, and Cambric ... by a Lady. [With Diagrams.]. T. Besley, 1835. https://books.google.com/books?id=TRpdAAAAcAAJ.

1838
The Ladies’ Knitting and Netting Book. 2nd ed. London: John Miland, 1838. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00376333.pdf.

184?
Giles, J. W. The Gift Netting, Knitting and Crochet Book or Knitter’s Present : Containing Receipts for the Most Novel and Elegant Designs in Raised Netting, Knitting and Crochet. London, 184x. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00394503.pdf.

1840
Gaugain, Jane. The Lady’s Assistant for Executing Useful and Fancy Designs in Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Work. Illustrated by Fifteen Engravings, Showing Various Stitches in the Art of Netting. Edinburgh: I.J. Gaugain, 1840. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00394037.pdf.

A Lady. The Workwoman’s Guide, Containing Instructions in Cutting out and Completing. London: Simpkin, Marshall, and Co., 1840. http://books.google.com/books?id=JCsBAAAAQAAJ.

Watts, Miss. The Ladies’ Knitting and Netting Book. 1st series, 5th ed. London: John Miland, 1840. http://books.google.com/books?id=8OcDAAAAQAAJ.

Watts, Miss. The Ladies’ Knitting and Netting Book. 2nd ed. Second Series. London: John Miland, 1840. http://www.gutenberg.org/files/33951/33951-h/33951-h.htm.

Watts, Miss. The Ladies’ Knitting and Netting Book. 2nd series, 2nd ed. London: John Miland, 1840. http://books.google.com/books?id=8-cDAAAAQAAJ.

1842
Gaugain, Jane. The Lady’s Assistant for Executing Useful and Fancy Designs in Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Work. Illusrated by Fifteen Engravings, Showing Various Stitches in the Art of Netting. 5th ed. London: I.J. Gaugain, 1842. http://books.google.com/books?id=RllHAAAAYAAJ.

Gaugain, Jane. The Lady’s Assistant for Executing Useful and Fancy Designs in Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Work : Illustrated by Fifteen Engravings, Showing Various Stitches in the Art of Netting. 5th ed. Edinburgh: I.J. Gaugain, 1842. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00228493.pdf.

Gaugain, Jane. The Lady’s Assistant in Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Work; with an Appendix Containing Directions and Remarks for Working in Embroidery or Worsted Work, Raised Cut Work, Tatting, &c. : Illustrated by Upwards of Forty Coloured Designs. Vol. Second volume. Edinburgh: I.J. Gaugain, 1842. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00376346.pdf.

Lambert, A. The Hand-Book of Needlework. New York, NY: Wiley & Putnam, 1842. http://books.google.com/books?id=SYIDAAAAYAAJ.

Lambert, A. The Hand-Book of Needlework. New York, NY: Wiley & Putnam, 1842. http://books.google.com/books?id=IZYPAAAAYAAJ.

The Ladies’ Hand-Book of Knitting, Netting, and Crochet, by the Author of “The Ladies” Hand-Book of Fancy Needlework and Embroidery’. London: H.G. Clarke, 1842. http://books.google.com/books?id=D4tyDaqUI50C.

1843
Gaugain, Jane. Mrs Gaugain’s Miniature Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Book. Edinburgh: I.J. Gaugain, 1843. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00376328.pdf.

The Ladies’ Hand-Book of Knitting, Netting, and Crochet; Containing Plain Directions, by Which to Become Orificiet in Those Branches of Useful and Ornamental Employment. by the Author of “The Ladies” Hand-Book of Fancy Needlework and Embroidery’. London: H. G. Clarke, 1843. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00394034.pdf.

The Ladies’ Work-Table Book. London: H.G. Clarke, 1843. http://books.google.com/books?id=_m9HAAAAYAAJ.

Lambert, A. My Knitting Book. London: John Murray, 1843. http://books.google.com/books?id=gesDAAAAQAAJ.

Lambert, A. My Knitting-Book, 1843. https://books.google.com/books?id=cyRhAAAAcAAJ.

Watts, Miss. Selections of Knitting, Netting, & Crochet Work ... Taken Chiefly from ... “The Ladies’ Knitting and Netting Book.” London: J. Miland, 1843. https://books.google.com/books?id=KRldAAAAcAAJ.

1844
Jackson, Elizabeth. The Practical Companion to the Work Table, Containing Selections for Knitting, Netting and Crochet Work. London: Hamilton, Adams, and Co., 1844. http://books.google.com/books?id=ldwDAAAAQAAJ.

The Ladies’ Hand-Book of Knitting, Netting, and Crochet. Containing Plain Directions by Which to Become Proficient in Those Branches of Useful and Ornamental Employment. Second Series. London: H. G. Clarke, 1844. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00394033.pdf.

The Ladies’ Work-Table Book. New York, NY: J. Winchester, 1844. http://www.gutenberg.org/files/29382/29382-h/29382-h.htm.

Anonymous. The Ladies’ Work-Table Book Containing Clear and Practical Instructions in Plain and Fancy Needlework, Embroidery, Knitting, Netting and Crochet. New York. J Winchester. 1844 http://archive.org/details/theladiesworktab29382gut.

Lambert, A. My Knitting Book. Seventh. London: John Murray, 1844. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00394035.pdf.

Mee, Cornelia. Mee’s Companion to the Work-Table, Containing Selections in Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Work. London: D. Bogue, 1844. http://books.google.com/books?id=nOkDAAAAQAAJ.

Owen, Mrs Henry. The Illuminated Ladies’ Book of Useful and Ornamental Needlework. 2nd ed. Edinburgh: Thomas Brooks, 8 Baker Street, Portman Square, 1844. http://books.google.com/books?id=LfMDAAAAQAAJ.

1845
Gaugain, Jane. The Accompaniment to Second Volume of Mrs Gaugain’s Work on Knitting, Netting and Crochet, Illustrating the Open Patterns and Stitches to Which Are Added Several Elegant and New Receipts. London: I.J. Gaugain, 1845. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00394025.pdf.

Gaugain, Jane. The Lady’s Assistant for Executing Useful and Fancy Designs in Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Work. Illustrated by Fifteen Engravings, Showing Various Stitches in the Art of Netting. 4th ed. Edinburgh: I.J. Gaugain, 1845. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00394038.pdf.

The Hand-Book of Useful and Ornamental Amusements and Accomplishments. ... By a Lady, 1845. https://books.google.com/books?id=TiVhAAAAcAAJ.

Jackson, Elizabeth. The Practical Companion to the Work Table, Containing Selections for. London: Simpkin, Marshall, and Co., 1845. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00394023.pdf.

Jackson, Elizabeth. The Practical Companion to the Work Table, Containing Selections for. London: Simpkin, Marshall, and Co., 1845. http://books.google.com/books?id=UvkDAAAAQAAJ.

The Ladies’ Work-Table Book. Philadelphia, PA: G. B. Zeiber, 1845. http://books.google.com/books?id=CiMXAAAAYAAJ.

Lambert, A. My Knitting Book. 12th ed. London: John Murray, 1845. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00376340.pdf.

Mee, Cornelia. Mee’s Companion to the Work-Table, Containing Selections in Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Work. London: D. Bogue, 1845. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00394020.pdf.

1846
Baynes, G. The Knitted Lace Collar Receipt Book. 4th ed. London: Simpkin, Marshall, and Co., 1846. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00376338.pdf.

Branchardière, Eléonore Riego de la. Knitting, Crochet, and Netting. London: S. Knights, 1846. http://books.google.com/books?id=_ikEAAAAQAAJ, http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00376347.pdf.

C, R. J. Directions for Plain Knitting for the Working Classes and Schools. J. Thompson, 1846. https://books.google.com/books?id=3SRhAAAAcAAJ.

Gaugain, Jane. The Knitter’s Friend, a Selection of Receipts in Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Work. Vol. 3. Edinburgh: J. Gaugain, 1846. http://books.google.com/books?id=AisEAAAAQAAJ

Gaugain, Jane. The Knitter’s Friend, a Selection of Receipts in Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Work. Vol. 3. Edinburgh: J. Gaugain, 1846. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00394024.pdf.

Hope, Mrs, ed. The Knitter’s Friend, a Selection of Receipts in Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Work. 5th ed. Ramsgate: I. Hope, 1846. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00402917.pdf.

Lambert, A. The Handbook of Needlework. 5th ed. London: John Murray, 1846. http://books.google.com/books?id=RllHAAAAYAAJ.

Mee, Cornelia. Exercises in Knitting. London: D. Bogue, 1846. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00394019.pdf.

Mee, Cornelia. Exercises in Knitting. London: D. Bogue, 1846. http://books.google.com/books?id=eFlHAAAAYAAJ.

1847
Baynes, Mrs Godfrey John. The Knitted Lace Chemisette Stomacher Receipt Book. Simpkin, Marshall&Company, 1847. https://books.google.com/books?id=jiZhAAAAcAAJ&dq.

Baynes, Mrs Godfrey John. The Young Mother’s Scrap-Book, Or Useful and Ornamental Knitting for the Nursery. Simpkin, Marshall&Company, 1847. https://books.google.com/books?id=pyZhAAAAcAAJ.

Cooper, Marie Jane. The New Guide to Knitting & Crochet. London: Parry, Blenkarin & Co., 1847. http://books.google.com/books?id=r-cDAAAAQAAJ.

Cooper, Marie Jane. The New Guide to Knitting & Crochet. Marine Parade, Hastings: J.S. Cooper, 1847. http://www.gutenberg.org/files/35582/35582-h/35582-h.htm.

Gaugain, Jane. Mrs. Gaugain’s Knit Polka Book. London: I.J. Gaugain, 1847. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00402924.pdf.

Gaugain, Jane. Pyrennees and Shetland Knit Shawl and Scarf Book. London: Ackermann and Co., 1847. http://books.google.com/books?id=MfMDAAAAQAAJ.

Gaugain, Jane. The Lady’s Assistant, for Executing Useful and Fancy Designs in Knitting. 4th (incomplete). London: I.J. Gaugain, 1847. http://books.google.com/books?id=4mYDAAAAQAAJ.

Gaugain, Jane. The Lady’s Assistant for Executing Useful and Fancy Designs in Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Work. 4th ed. London: I.J. Gaugain, 1847. http://books.google.com/books?id=G2ZHAAAAYAAJ.

Gaugain, Mrs (Jane). The Lady’s Assistant for Executing Useful and Fancy Designs in Knitting, Netting and Crochet Work... Edinburgh : I.J. Gaugain’, Foreign and British Depot of Berlin Patterns and Materials for Ladies’ Fancy Works, 1847. http://archive.org/details/ladysassistantfo03gaug.

Gaugain, Jane. The Lady’s Assistant for Executing Useful and Fancy Designs in Knitting, Netting and Crochet Work... Edinburgh : I.J. Gaugain’, Foreign and British Depot of Berlin Patterns and Materials for Ladies’ Fancy Works, 1847. http://archive.org/details/ladysassistantfo02gaug.

Gaugain, Jane. The Lady’s Assistant for Executing Useful and Fancy Designs in Knitting, Netting and Crochet Work... 4th ed. Edinburgh : I.J. Gaugain’, Foreign and British Depot of Berlin Patterns and Materials for Ladies’ Fancy Works, 1847. http://archive.org/details/ladysassistantfo01gaug.

Green, Agnes. The Knitted Curtain Receipt Book, 1847. https://books.google.com/books?id=lSZhAAAAcAAJ.

Hope, Mrs. The Knitter’s Casket: A Series of Receipts in Ornamental Knitting and Netting. Corrected Ed. London: I. Hope, 1847. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00376339.pdf.

Lady, A. The Floral Knitting Book: Or the Art of Knitting Imitation of Natural Flowers. London: Groombridge & Sons, 1847. http://www.southampton.ac.uk/library/ldu/wsa.html.

Lambert, A. My Knitting Book. Second. London: John Murray, 1847. http://books.google.com/books?id=JVJHAAAAYAAJ

Lambert, A. My Knitting Book. Second. London: John Murray, 1847. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00394036.pdf.

Lambert, A. My Knitting Book. Vol. second series. London: John Murray, 1847. http://books.google.com/books?id=JVJHAAAAYAAJ.

Mee, C. The Companion to the Work-Table. London: D. Bogue, 1847. http://books.google.com/books?id=xlZHAAAAYAAJ.

Mee, C. The Companion to the Work-Table: Containing Selections in Knitting, Netting, & Crocket Work. D. Bogue, 1847. http://books.google.com/books?id=xlZHAAAAYAAJ.

Mee, Cornelia. The Work-Table Magazine of Church and Decorative Needlework ... Knitting. Vol. v.1. London: D. Bogue, 1847. http://books.google.com/books?id=eFAEAAAAQAAJ.

Mee, Cornelia. The Work-Table Magazine of Church and Decorative Needlework ... Knitting, Netting Etc., by Mrs. [C.] Mee and Miss Austin. Vol. 1. London: D. Bogue, 1847. http://books.google.com/books?id=eFAEAAAAQAAJ.

Ronaldson. Lady’s Book of Useful and Ornamental Knitting and Netting Work ... London: Thomas Nelson, 1847. http://books.google.com/books?id=u1VHAAAAYAAJ.

Savage, Mrs. The Winchester Fancy Needlework Instructor and Manual of the Fashionable and Elegant Accomplishment of Knitting and Crochet. London: Simpkin, Marshall, and Co., 1847. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00376327.pdf.

Savage, Mrs William. Gems of Knitting and Crochet. London, 1847. https://books.google.com/books?id=uCZhAAAAcAAJ.

1848
American lady. A Winter Gift for Ladies. Being Instructions in Knitting,netting, and Crochet Work. Philadelphia: G. B. Zeiber & Co, 1848. http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/pub/PDF/WinterGift.pdf.

Branchardière, Eléonore Riego de la. The Winter Book for 1848. London: Simpkin, Marshall, and Company, Ackermann & Company, Strand ; Oliver and Boyd, Edinburgh ; and all the Berlin Warehouses., 1848. https://books.google.com/books?id=xydhAAAAcAAJ.

The Drawing-Room Magazine: Or, Ladies Book of Fancy Needlework and Choice Literature. Vol. I. London, 1848. http://books.google.com/books?id=DlcEAAAAQAAJ.

Parlour Recreations for Ladies. London: William S. Orr, 1848. http://books.google.com/books?id=pC4EAAAAQAAJ.

Riego de la Branchardiere, Mdlle. The Knitting Book. 3rd ed. London: Simpkin, Marshall, and Co., 1848. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00402915.pdf.

Rigolette de la Hamelin, Mdlle. The Royal Magazine of Knitting, Netting, Crochet and Fancy Needlework. Vol. 5. London: Sherwood & Co., 1848. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00402935.pdf.

The Seamstress: A Guide to Plain and Fancy Needlework, Baby Linen, Millinery and Dressmaking, Embroidery and Lacework, Knitting, Netting, Crochet-Work, and Tatting ... New York: J.S. Redfield, 1848. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/36488404.

1849
Copley, Esther. The Comprehensive Knitting Book. London: William Tegg and Co., 1849. http://books.google.com/books?id=lFkEAAAAQAAJ.

1850
Carter, W. The Royal Exhibition Knitting, Netting and Crochet Book. No. 3. London: J. T. Wood, 1850. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00402943.pdf.

Carter, W. The Royal Exhibition Knitting, Netting and Crochet Book. No. 5. London: J. T. Wood, 1850. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00402942.pdf.

Savage, Mrs William. The Knitted Paletot, with Eight New Transverse Crochet Edgings. London: Simpkin and Marshall, 1850. https://books.google.com/books?id=vCRhAAAAcAAJ.

The Ladies’ Work-Table Book; Containing Clear and Practical Instructions in Plain and Fancy Needle-Work, Embroidery, Knitting, Netting, Crochet, Tatting, &c., &c. with Numerous Engravings, Illustrative of the Various Stitches in Those Useful and Fashionable Employments. 3rd ed. London: George Slater, 1850. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00376344.pdf.

The Lady’s Album of Fancy Work for 1850. London: Grant and Griffith, 1850. http://www.gutenberg.org/files/12642/12642-h/12642-h.htm.

The Lady’s Album of Fancy Work for 1850. London: Grant and Griffith, 1850. http://archive.org/details/ladysalbumoffanc00stev.

1851
Lambert, A. The Hand-Book of Needlework. Philadelphia, PA: Willis P. Hazard, 1851. http://archive.org/details/cu31924003592221.

Royal Victoria Knitting Book. Vol. 7. London, 1851. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00902933.pdf.

1852
The Ladies’ Companion. Vol. 2 Second Series. London: Rogerson and Tuxford, 1852. http://books.google.com/books?id=EbARAAAAYAAJ.

The Ladies’ Work-Table Book; Containing Clear and Practical Instructions in Plain and Fancy Needle-Work, Embroidery, Knitting, Netting, Crochet, Tatting, &c., &c. : With Numerous Engravings, Illustrative of the Various Stitches in Those Useful and Fashionable Employments. London: H. G. Bohn, 1852. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00394028.pdf.

1853
The Ladies’ Self Instructor in Millinery and Mantua Making, Embroidery and Appliqué, Canvas-Work, Knitting, Netting, and Crochet-Work. Philadelphia, PA: J. & J.L. Gihon, 1853. http://archive.org/details/ladiesselfinstru00phil.

1854
Branchardière, Eléonore Riego de la. Comforts for the Crimea: Or the Fourth Winter Book in Crochet and Knitting, 1854. https://books.google.com/books?id=ySdhAAAAcAAJ.

Stephens, Ann Sophia. The Ladies’ Complete Guide to Crochet, Fancy Knitting and Needlework. New York, NY: Garrett & Co., 1854. http://books.google.com/books?id=LA9BAAAAYAAJ.

The Ladies Work-Book: Containing Instructions in Knitting, Crochet, Point-Lace, Etc. London: John Cassell, 1854. http://www.gutenberg.org/files/16605/16605-h/16605-h.htm.

1855
Warren, Eliza, and Matilda Marian Pullan. Treasures in Needlework, by Mrs. Warren and Mrs. Pullan. London: Ward and Lock, 1855. http://books.google.com/books?id=IzkCAAAAQAAJ.

1856
Nicholson, Elizabeth. What I Know: Or, Hints on the Daily Duties of a Housekeeper. Comprising Nearly Five Hundred Receipts, for Cooking, Preserving, Pickling, Washing, Ironing, Gardening, Plain and Fancy Needle-Work, Putting up of Winter Stores, and Numerous Other Receipts Useful and Needful in Every Well-Regulated Household. Philadelphia, PA: W. P. Hazard, 1856. http://books.google.com/books?id=KAIFAAAAYAAJ.

Pullan, Matilda Marian. The Lady’s Dictionary of Needlework. London: Ward and Lock, 1856. http://books.google.com/books?id=9D4CAAAAQAAJ.

The Industrial Handbook Containing Plain Instructions in Needlework and Knitting Together with Directions for the Cutting out of All Useful Garments : To Which Are Added Some Rules and Receipts for Ornamental Needle-Work Patch-Work and Worsted-Work Fancy Knitting and Crochet : Adapted to the Use of Mothers of Families Schoolmistresses and Matrons of Emigrant Ships. Part II, Knitting / Edited by the Authoress of The Young Emigrant &c. Part II. London: The Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, 1856. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00376337.pdf.

1857
Branchardière, Eléonore Riego de la. The Crochet Winter Book, for 1857, 1857. https://books.google.com/books?id=yidhAAAAcAAJ.

1858
Child, Lydia Maria Francis. The Girl’s Own Book. 18th ed. London: W. Tegg & Co., 1858. http://books.google.com/books?id=UhSgAAAAMAAJ.

1859
Hartley, Florence. The Ladies’ Hand Book of Fancy and Ornamental Work. Philadelphia, PA: G. G. Evans Publisher, 1859. http://www.archive.org/details/ladieshandbookof00hart.

Lambert, A. The Ladies’ Complete Guide to Needle-Work and Embroidery. Philadelphia, PA: T.B. Peterson and Brothers, 1859. http://books.google.com/books?id=fzFFAAAAYAAJ.

Pullan, Matilda Marian. The Lady’s Manual of Fancy Work : A Complete Instructor in Every Variety of Ornamental Needle-Work... New York, NY: Dick & Fitzgerald, 1859. http://archive.org/details/ladysmanualoffan00pull.

The Household Encyclopedia. Vol. II. London: Kent and Co., 1859. http://books.google.com/books?id=SQMUAAAAQAAJ.

1860
Mee, C., and Austin, Miss. “Manual of Knitting: Beautifully Illustrated.” In Manual of Knitting: Beautifully Illustrated. First. London: Simpkin, Marshall, and Co., 1860. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00376341.pdf.

1861
Branchardière, Eléonore Riego de la. The Andalusian Knitting and Netting Book. London: Simpkin, Marshall, and Co., 1861. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00376352.pdf.

The Ladies’ Companion. Vol. 20 Second series. London: Bradbury and Evans, 1861. http://books.google.com/books?id=FLQRAAAAYAAJ.

The What-Not; or Ladies’ Handy-Book. London: Kent and Co., 1861. http://books.google.com/books?id=pFYEAAAAQAAJ.

1862
Mee, Cornelia. The Queen’s Winter Knitting Book, by Mrs. Mee & Miss Austin. Ser. 3 of the “Knitter”s Companion’. London: Frederick Arnold, 1862. http://books.google.com/books?id=GPMHAAAAQAAJ.

1863
Gaugain, Jane. The Lady’s Assistant for Executing Useful and Fancy Designs in Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Work, with Illustrated Patterns Originally Composed by the Late Mrs. Gaugain. Vol. Part II. London: Harrison, 1863. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00402922.pdf.

The What-Not; or Ladies’ Handy-Book. London: Kent and Co., 1863. http://books.google.com/books?id=21YEAAAAQAAJ.

1864
Branchardière, Eléonore Riego de la. The Useful Knitting Book. Simpkin, Marshall&Company, 1864. http://books.google.com/books?id=lrFbAAAAcAAJ.

1865
Ryder, E. How to Knit Stockings : This Packet Contains General Rules for Knitting Stockings, Ladies’ Ribbed Stockings, Gentlemen’s Knickerbocker Stockings, Boys Stockings. Richmond, 1865. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00393976.pdf.

1866
Bow Bells. Vol. V, New Series. London: J. Dicks, 1866. http://books.google.com/books?id=d80aAQAAMAAJ.

1867
Branchardière, Eléonore Riego de la. The Abergeldie Winter Book. London: Simpkin, Marshall, and Co., 1867. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00376326.pdf.

Mee, Cornelia, and Austin. Knitter’s Companion. 9th ed. First. London: Mrs. Mee and Miss Austin, 1867. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00402925.pdf.

Valentine, Laura. The Home Book of Pleasure and Instruction. London: Frederick Warne, 1867. http://books.google.com/books?id=Gt4YAAAAYAAJ.

1869
The Young Housekeeper as Daughter, Wife, and Mother: Forming a Perfect “Young Woman”s Companion’. Compiled by the Ed. of “The Family Friend”. London: Ward, Lock and Tyler, 1869. http://books.google.com/books?id=8T8CAAAAQAAJ.

187?
Ryder, E. How to Knit Socks : Full and Simple Directions by Which Persons May Teach Themselves. Richmond: Henry Hurworth, 187x. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00402937.pdf.

Ryder, E. How to Knit Socks : With Full and Simple Directions by Which Persons May Teach Themselves. Richmond: Charles E Cookes, 187x. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00402938.pdf.

1870
Beeton, Isabella May. Beeton’s Book of Needlework. London: Ward, Lock and Tyler, 1870. http://www.gutenberg.org/files/15147/15147-h/15147-h.htm.

Cupples, Mrs George. The Stocking-Knitter’s Manual : A Handy Book for the Work-Table. Edinburgh: Johnstone, Hunter & co., 1870. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00393973.pdf.

Philp, Robert Kemp. Best of Everything, by the Author of “Enquire Within”. London: Kent and Co., 1870. http://books.google.com/books?id=8JECAAAAQAAJ.

1871
Cupples, Mrs George. A Knitting-Book of Counterpanes : Toilet-Covers, Pincushions and Other Articles of Fancy Work. Edinburgh: Johnstone, Hunter & co., 1871. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00402936.pdf.

1872
Philp, Robert Kemp. Take My Advice: Giving Information on Everything Pertaining to Daily Life. By the Late Editor of “The Family Friend”. London: James Blackwood & Co., 1872. http://books.google.com/books?id=izcCAAAAQAAJ.

1873
Hamilton, Alexander V. The Household Cyclopædia of Practical Receipts and Daily Wants ... Springfield, MA: W.J. Holland & Co., 1873. http://books.google.com/books?id=MLhGAAAAMAAJ.

1874
Corbould, Elvina Mary. The Lady’s Knitting-Book / by E.M.C Author of “The Lady”s Crochet-Book’ Etc. 2nd ed. First Series. London: Hatchards, 1874. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00376350.pdf.

1875
Beeton, Isabella May. The Young Englishwoman. London: Ward, Lock and Tyler, 1875. http://books.google.com/books?id=9CQGAAAAQAAJ.

Corbould, Elvina Mary. The Lady’s Knitting-Book / by E.M.C Author of “The Lady”s Crochet-Book’ Etc. 4th ed. First Series. London: Hatchards, 1875. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00402939.pdf.

1876
a Lady. The Home Knitter : A Manual for Making Useful Articles for the Family. Edinburgh: Johnstone, Hunter & co., 1876. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00376334.pdf.

Ryder, E. How to Knit Spun Silk Socks & Stockings : With Full and Simple Directions by Which Persons May Teach Themselves. Richmond: Henry Hurworth, 1876. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00376343.pdf.

Ryder, H.P. Winter Comforts and How to Knit Them : Directions for Knitting Gentlemen’s Hunting Mittens and Driving Gloves, Ladies’ House Mittens and Chest Protector. Richmond: Bellews & Hurworth, 1876. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00393975.pdf.

1877
Valentine, Laura. The Young Woman’s Book: A Useful Manual for Everyday Life. London: Frederick Warne and Co., 1877. http://books.google.com/books?id=kUICAAAAQAAJ.

1878
Corbould, Elvina Mary. The Lady’s Knitting-Book : Containing Four Dozen Patterns of Useful and Ornamental Knitting / by E.M.C Author of “The Lady”s Crochet-Book’ Etc. Second Series. London: Hatchards, 1878. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00402940.pdf.

1879
A Lady manager. The Standard Guide to Knitting : According to the New Code. 2nd ed. London: Edward Stanford, 1879. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00402927.pdf.

Hale, Lucretia Peabody. Plain Needlework, Knitting and Mending for All , at Home and in Schools: Giving Instruction in Plain Sewing, the Management of Classes, Etc. Boston: S. W. Tilton and Co., 1879. http://books.google.com/books?id=EkVGAAAAYAAJ.

1880
Knitting and Crochet, an Illustrated Manual of Home Industry, Containing Plain Practical Directions for Making a Large Variety of Useful and Ornamental Articles, Fancy Stitches, Etc. New York, NY: New York Tribune, 1880. http://books.google.com/books?id=pvonAAAAYAAJ.

1881
Corbould, Elvina Mary. The Lady’s Knitting-Book / by E.M.C Author of “The Lady”s Crochet-Book.’. First Series. London: Hatchards, 1881. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00394041.pdf.

Nonotuck Silk Company. How to Use Florence Knitting Silk. Revised and enlarged edition. Wright & Porter, 1881. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00402932.pdf.

The Knitting Teacher’s Assistant : Designed for the Use of National Girls’ Schools / Edited by E. M. C. New Edition. London: Hatchards, 1881. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00376329.pdf.

1882
Corbould, Elvina M. Mother’s Knitter : Containing Some Patterns of Things for Little Children. London: Hachards, 1882. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00394030.pdf.

Corbould, Elvina Mary. Mother’s Knitter, by E.M.C. London: Hatchards, 1882. http://books.google.com/books?id=V1sFAAAAQAAJ.

Corbould, Elvina Mary. Mother’s Knitter, by E.M.C., 1882. https://books.google.com/books?id=V1sFAAAAQAA.

Handbook of Plain and Fancy Needlwork. London: Ward, Lock and Co., 1882. http://books.google.com/books?id=90QCAAAAQAAJ.

Loch. The Second Book of “Hows” : Or What May Be Done with Wools in Every Home. Halifax: Baldwin & Walker, 190x. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00402941.pdf.
ltd. Ward and Lock’s Home Book. London: Ward, Lock and Co., 1882. http://books.google.com/books?id=VKECAAAAQAAJ.

1883
Nonotuck Silk Company. How to Use Florence Knitting Silk. Boston, MA: Wright & Porter, 1883. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00402931.pdf.

1884
Ladies’ Guide to Elegant Law Patterns, Etc. Gloucester, MA: Proctor Brothers, 1884. http://archive.org/details/ladiesguidetoele00nile.

Lewis, E. Wools and How to Use Them. 2nd ed. Birmingham: Jevons & Mellor, 1884. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00394022.pdf.

The Young Ladies’ Journal Complete Guide to the Work-Table. London: E. Harrison, 1884. http://books.google.com/books?id=9p4aAAAAYAAJ.

The Young Ladies’ Journal Complete Guide to the Worktable: Containing Instructions in Berlin Work, Crochet, Drawn-Thread Work, Embroidery, Knitting, Knotting or Macramé, Lace, Netting, Poonah Painting, & Tatting, with Numerous Illustrations and Coloured Designs. London: E. Harrison, 1884. http://books.google.com/books?id=9p4aAAAAYAAJ.

1885
Nonotuck Silk Company. How to Use Florence Knitting Silk. Boston, MA: Wright & Porter, 1885. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00394040.pdf.

The Young Ladies’ Journal Complete Guide to the Work-Table. London: E. Harrison, 1885. http://books.google.com/books?id=m8uxzqfS_usC.

1886
A leading pattern maker. The Work Box and Needle;. New York: Coast City Publishing Co., 1886. http://archive.org/details/workboxneedle00newy.

Croly, Jane Cunningham. Ladies’ Fancy Work: A Manual of Designs & Instructions in All Kinds of Needlework. New York: A.L. Burt, 1886. http://books.google.com/books?id=CwJHAAAAYAAJ.

Dorinda (pseud.). Needlework for Ladies for Pleasure and Profit / by “Dorinda,” Containing Suggestions How to Make Needlework Remunerative; Instructions for All the Newest and Most Fashionable Kinds of Fancy Work; Practical Directions and Recipes for Making Numerous Useful, Pretty, and Saleable Articles, and List of All the Established Work Societies. 3rd ed. London: Swan Sonnenschein, Lowery, 1886. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00394502.pdf.

1888
Mackarness, Matilda Anne Planché. The Young Lady’s Book: A Manual of Amusements, Exercises, Studies, and Pursuits. 4th ed. London: G. Routledge, 1888. http://books.google.com/books?id=Jd2HfQXDbGIC.

Myra’s Knitting Lessons: No. 1 Containing the Rudiments of Knitting a Various Useful Patternsfor This Work. Silkworm Series. London: Myra and Son, 1888. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00402926.pdf.

Philp, Robert Kemp. The Best of Everything: A Domestic Manual. London: Frederick Warne and Co., 1888. http://books.google.com/books?id=9VdJAAAAYAAJ.

1890
The American Domestic Cyclopædia: A Volume of Universal Ready Reference for American Women in American Homes. New York: F.M. Lupton, 1890. http://books.google.com/books?id=54pIAAAAYAAJ.

Bach, Emilie. New Patterns in Old Style. English edition. Vol. First part. Alsace: Th. de Dillmont, 1890. http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/pub/PDF/BachNewPatterns1.pdf.

Bach, Emilie. New Patterns in Old Style. English edition. Vol. Second part. Alsace: Th. de Dillmont, 1890. http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/pub/PDF/BachNewPatterns2.pdf.

Elliott, M. The Book of Hats and Caps. London: Faudel, Phillips & Son, 1890. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00376336.pdf.

1892
Company, Butterick Publishing. The Art of Knitting. New York: Butterick Publishing Company, 1892. http://library.si.edu/digital-library/book/artofknitting00butt.

1893
Rosevear, Elizabeth. A Text-Book of Needlework, Knitting and Cutting out with Methods of Teaching. London: Macmillan, 1893. http://books.google.com/books?id=k1NDAAAAYAAJ.

1894
Schéfer, G., and Sophie Amis. Travaux Manuels et Économie Domestique a L’usage Des Jeunes Filles ... Paris: C. Delagrave, 1894. http://books.google.com/books?id=ehhIAAAAIAAJ.

1895
Home Notes, London. Vol. 4. London: C. Arthur Pearson, 1895. http://books.google.com/books?id=Bzq2AAAAMAAJ.


1896
Jones, E. G., F. Heath, and Loch (Miss.). A Manual of Plain Needlework and Cutting-Out. London: Longmans, Green & Co., 1896. http://books.google.com/books?id=rjBFAAAAYAAJ.

1901
James, T. M. Longmans’ Complete Course of Needlework, Knitting and Cutting out. London: Longmans, Green, and co., 1901. http://books.google.com/books?id=cmhGAAAAYAAJ.

1902
Ladies Work for Sailors. London: The Mission to Seamen, 1902. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00402916.pdf.

Royal National Mission to the Deep Sea Fisherman. Helping the Trawlers. London: Bridge House, 1902. http://pdf.library.soton.ac.uk/WSA_open_access/00402914.pdf.


191?
Loch. The Book of “Hows” or What May Be Done with Wools in Every Home : Learning to Knit. 3rd ed. Halifax: Baldwin & Walker, 191x. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00376332.pdf.

1911
The Seventh Book of “Hows” : Or How to Knit and Crochet Wools. Manchester: Needlecraft, 1911. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00394026.pdf.

1914
Peek, Emily. Practical Instruction in Cutting out and Making up Hospital Garments for Sick and Wounded (approved by the Red Cross Society) : Knitted Articles and Women’s Apparel Including Dressmaking (illustrated with Sheets of Diagrams Drawn to Scale for Practical Use). London: John Bale, Sons & Danielsson, 1914. http://www.vads.ac.uk/images/WSA/PDF/00394014.pdf.

1916
Archer, Effie Archer. Needlecraft. Doubleday, Page & Co., 1916. http://books.google.com/books?id=PuksAAAAYAAJ.

Woman’s Home Companion. Crowell-Collier, 1916. http://books.google.com/books?id=LsUiAQAAMAAJ.

1917
Teachers, Boston (Mass.). Special Class. The Boston Way: Plans for the Development of the Individual Child. The Rumford Press, 1917. http://books.google.com/books?id=-Z8WAAAAIAAJ.

1920
Lion Yarn Book. Lion Yarn Company, 1920. http://library.si.edu/digital-library/book/lionyarnbookdesc00lion.